Tuesday, February 7, 2012

The Alps, Hallstatt, and Salzburg Old Town

I woke up at 6 am to two inches of fresh snow. As I walked to the train station, starting at 6:45, I noticed that most everyone had already been out to shovel their walks. The roads were mostly still covered, but many were in the process of clearing the snow away. It was still coming down as I walked, but I was so hot all bundled up! I don't know what the temperature was, but it was a LOT warmer than yesterday.

I got super lost on the way to the train station even though I had done the walk yesterday. I wish people would make maps with every road on them instead of just the ones you're SUPPOSED to be on. The train was to leave at 7:10. I pretty much gave up and knew I wouldn't make it. The train station was in sight at 7:09. 7:10 came and went. I was super frustrated about being lost and wasting an hour of precious sunlight. I decided to check the platform to make sure the train had gone, and it was still there! At 7:14! Who's the luckiest girl in the world? I am! I jumped on and two minutes later we were off.

The weather was not good so I was not expecting this day to really be the best. At one point, the train slammed on its breaks, cabin doors went slamming, and lights started flickering. There was a very nice man in my cabin and we chit chatted for the first part of my ride.

I arrived at the transfer point only to find that my train was delayed 15 minutes...25 minutes...35 minutes...45 minutes!!! I could have eaten breakfast and just caught the later train anyway. Instead I got to freeze my butt off at a podunk middle of no where train station. :)

I got settled on the train for what I didn't know would be the. Ride. Of. My. Life. The Alps are absolutely majestic. I will never forget the train rides to/from Hallstatt. I felt guilty every time I had to look away from the window because a ticket checker was bothering me. When we went through tunnels I got on the edge of my seat as I waited for what amazing view would be on the other end. It was snowing, and the clouds covered the tops of the mountains so my pictures are not great. But like I said, I will never forget the jaw-dropping beauty of the snow covered alps in Austria. I have never felt so small. I can't imagine what people from non-mountainous places think/feel when they see them. It must be outrageous.

As for Hallstatt, I got off at the stop-there's not even a station. The train just stops at a wide place and you walk down to a boat dock to take a boat to the actual city. When I got down to the dock I could see the lake and Hallstatt and mountains and birds and snow and trees and steeples and everything that ever was beautiful. I wanted to sit right there and never move (if I could stay warm, of course). I was just in awe. I waited, and waited, and waited, and waited for the boat to come to take me across the lake to the town, but it never came. I waited 45 minutes, and then I realized that there were only my footprints and one others in the snow...and that other was probably the person that shoveled the walk what looked like a couple hours earlier. I felt very...stranded. I was completely alone in the middle of the Alps. It was peaceful at first, but then I kinda got scared. I decided that I would take the next train or boat...whichever came first.

Unfortunately, a train going back the way I came arrived fifteen minutes later, so I got on it an headed back to home base in Salzburg. I'm sad I didn't get to go into Hallstatt, but just from what I was fortunate to see I can testify/witness to you that it is in the top five prettiest places in the world. It's been around since before Christ. It's secluded. It's quiet. Hallstatt is for lovers. It is romantic with swans and lakes and mountains and sunshine. I hope to come back here and hike someday (in the summer) when there is a crowd I can follow :)

I enjoyed the train ride out of the Salzkammergut Region as much as I enjoyed going into it. I sat on other side of the train so I could see the other half of the amazing views on this unsolicited scenic train ride. B. e. a. u. tiful, I tell you.

I accidentally got on a private train to Salzburg at the transfer point, and my train pass didn't cover it so I had to pay €7. I was kinda mad. And freaking hungry.

I got back and headed toward Old Town. I stopped at a bakery and got a little pizza before I passed out. Haha ok not really. I just...fasted! I wandered Salzburg's Old Town and climbed up the path to the Hohensalzhurg Fortress. It's built in a rock some 400 feet above Salzburg, and the views from the top were great!! It was a steep hike but I liked it a lot.

I wandered through the Dom. The stucco was exceptional, and I sat under the dome and imagined all 4 organs playing and a balcony full of musicians. That's real surround sound! Mozart himself was the organist there for two years. All the churches I've seen have been so complex and ornate and pretty, but I'm not going to lie...I can't wait to get back to the smushed Cheerios carpet and floral couches of church at home.

I walked through St Peter's cemetery which was unlike anything I've ever seen. Iron crosses were used on many sites because they're cheaper than gravestones. There were gated off spaces for probably the wealthiest people. I read that gravesites in Austria are rented, not owned. Rent bills are sent out every ten years, and if the bills aren't paid then they dig up the body and throw it away. Gross!! I wouldn't want that job!! The cemetery that the von Trapp family hid out in in The Sound of Music was a Hollywood set, but it was inspired by St Peter's Cemetery.

I saw Mozart's Geburtshaus (birthplace) which is the house he was born in and lived in for the first 17 years of his life. He was born in 1756. It was in that building that he composed most of his boy-genius works. Salzburg is an inspirational place to be, and Mozart's heritage has kept the love for classical and modern music alive here. There are concerts of all sorts every night at like ten different locations. The opera house has four different theatres. They have a music festival every year, and they've already posted the schedule (it's in August). Many people come to Salzburg specifically for the event. Musicians play on the side of the streets even in the freezing cold winter. I saw guys playing guitar (he played a couple songs by Queen!!), violin, harmonica, and that one instrument that has piano keys on one hand and then you squeeze it...haha what is it called?! Whatever. They were all awesome.

I ended my sightseeing earlier than usual and went to the grocery store to get some things. I got toothpaste, shampoo, conditioner, face wash, and pretzels. Hello heavy backpack. I went for bigger bottles because my little ones have already run out, and I'm only two weeks in to my trip. They cost the same as the travel size. Yeah, they'll be heavier, but it was cheaper and I can either check my bag or throw them out before flying home. They'll probably be all gone by then!

I am going to plan my time in Switzerland, eat dinner, and watch The Sound of Music at my hostel tonight. Should be lovely!

7 comments:

  1. I'm glad the train rides at least had great scenery for you. I can't imagine the fear of sitting at an abandoned train station so far from home. YOu are so brave! If I hadn't already bitten my nails, I would have started doing it now. Anyway, glad to know you are sleeping safe and sound in your hostel as I'm typing this.

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  2. My brother informed me that the instrument mentioned above is an accordion. :)

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  3. Squeezebox! Listen to the WHO song. Laur will know it.

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  4. BTW, I so know what you are talking about when you said in an earlier post that it seems like Germans are yelling at each other when they speak in their own tongue. I spent quite a bit of time with a gentleman named Andreas, who was from Switzerland. When he switched gears to talk on his phone, I was always thinking he was mad. We went up to Park City and walked through a gallery that had a huge photograph of his hometown with the ALPS as a backdrop. The photo was breathtaking. I can only imagine what it would be like to see them for realz.

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  5. That sounds awesome. I am so jealous. I am glad you get to see such beautiful views and that you aren't stranded in the Alps.

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  6. They literally are breathtaking!! I'm glad I'm not stranded either :)

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